¡locked down! neighbors, poo, rubber masks and bocci

It is important for a writer to write about their world with the idealistic hope of arousing the most rarified elements of the human spirit – understanding, empathy, compassion, curiosity – in a reader by providing a window onto that world. Welcome to my balcony caballero.

On Easter Sunday I was reminded of the many countless people around the world performing selfless acts of kindness by my neighbor Linda. She knocked on my door early in the afternoon.

“What kind of mask have you been using?” she enquired. I gestured over to my table and said,  “I just have one of the cheap ones from the market that probably don’t do too much.”

“I made these for everyone in the building. Take one of these so that you are safe,” she said with a smile.

She recounted that another resident of our building had ordered a 50 pack of surgical masks, but they arrived and much to her disappointment seemed to be of dubious quality. She rapidly and correctly identified the problem: they allowed too much air to pass through. After multiple experiments sewing in various types of fabric that would filter the air better and limit its free flow, she came across a vinyl shower curtain type material that she had left over from an interior decorating project that she had done years before.

I took the mask and examined it closely, scrutinizing the impermeable rubber layer.

She touted the benefits, “It doesn’t allow anything through. I even tried it with water, and it didn’t allow even one drop through.”

The mask filled with water. (Pepper added for contrast and depth, not to induce sneezing and increase my neighbors anxiety.)

“I hope it allows air through,” I said politely.

“My husband said the same thing,” she said dismissively.

She is right that wearing a mask that doesn’t allow any air to pass through it does make it 100% certain that you will not contract COVID-19 through your airway.

Several of my neighbors would have appreciated these masks over the previous days as tensions rose as rumors spread through the building of a shocking development on the first floor that was compromising all of our health, a sanitary crisis. These rumors in the coming days would lead to baseless accusations being flung around that would pit neighbor against neighbor. It appeared to have been seemingly intentionally left there, carefully placed in the middle of the doormat for maximum effect. Wild theories were put forth, including that someone entered from outside – adding to the concern of contagion. It wasn’t clear if the gate was left unlocked in this theory or if the intruder bypassed the electric fence that surrounds the building. The inferno was stoked by the fact that the building’s management was safely ensconced in their homes due to the quarantine rendering revision of the security cameras impossible.

The pulse-quickening suspense of this interminable wait combined with the restrictive nature of my newly acquired mask drove me to the roof of the building. To play bocci. Without a mask. As I ascended with my friend Olga, we passed one of my neighbors that I hadn’t met beforehand named Pierre. We exchanged pleasantries and carried on our way.

In the midst of our bocci game, Pierre joined us on the roof to introduce himself.

“Hi – Im Pierre.” We introduced ourselves. “I live in apartment 302. I am a photographer and I am losing all of my inspiration being trapped in the building with no one to shoot. And when I saw you guys pass on the stairs I thought that it would be great to take photos of you. We could wait for a day with nice light – like today – and just do something casual. Let me show you my work on Instagram to see if you are interested.”

We scrolled through his photos. All of them were of sultry women dressed in lingerie giving the camera provocative glances, well unless they were bent over in a way that might lead to a neck injury if they tried to look into the lens. I didn’t know what to say, so I didn’t say anything. Thankfully, Olga carried the conversation by changing the subject and switching to French. We exchanged contact info, but I don’t think that Pierre wants to have a photoshoot with me.

living in my underwear and conversing with flies

My mental state ebbs and flows. Never before have I had the chance to run an experiment like this, to sit for weeks on end in the same place, largely determining what each second of my day looks like. These conditions can precipitate out the good and toxic elements that flavor each day. This is what it looks like.

The city is quite quiet. There are no cars, no people after 6pm. A voice speaking any language other than Spanish or a car that sounds abnormal bring me to the window to look out. I have seen five different species of bird in Lima that I did not know existed beforehand – I wake up each morning to their raucous calls and songs as if I am in the jungle. These emerald and cerulean birds were always here, they didn’t migrate with the virus, they were simply rendered mute by the urban machine. I live several blocks from the beach and my bedroom now sounds like I am on the beach each night; I can tell when a swell comes in from how loud the waves are as they tumble the rocks along the coast.

It has been impressive how quickly the measures that we are enduring have become reasonably normalized. The initial discomfort that resulted from the repressive confinement has faded and has been replaced by a mere ennui. There have now been multiple days in a row when I haven’t left my apartment and haven’t really felt much of an urge to do so. Every couple of days the government imposes even more draconian policies and each time it bothers me less. We are at the point where I can only legally go outside during two days this week – just for groceries and while wearing a mask. These are strange times though. Everyone wears masks. We all avoid one another in the street. No two people walk together. I see a video online of a body or person being removed from a building two blocks away from me on a stretcher enclosed in a clear plastic bubble.

Each morning I get up to meditate. I feel inordinately sensitive to everything that happens around me. I imagine that this is a direct result of the sensory deprivation that I am experiencing. I observe the doves that roost outside my window as they gather materials to build their nest. I watch the flies and bugs that live in my apartment with intense curiosity. I slowly approach them to avoid spooking them, bringing my eye close for a macroview. I have even caught myself speaking to them, in jest I tell myself, but maybe this is how insanity begins?

My mental state is directly correlated to how much I stare at the amidst whirling media vortex that gathers up – often without regard for the dubiousness of its origin – and spews forth medical reports without sufficient explanation, information about unproven cures, geopolitical propaganda related to the crisis, anecdotes from frontline workers, reports of shortages, recipes for quarantine comfort foods, reports of surpluses, reports of boredom, reports of exhaustion, reports of bodies in the street, fun craft projects, discussions of how to dress for online meetings, reports of stock markets surging, and reports of economies collapsing. Charlatans become scientists. New comedic geniuses arise. Politicians proclaim themselves doctors and epidemiologists. Those pandering false hope become heroes. Doomsayers become prophets.

I have started having frequent nightmares about the virus, earthquakes and the death of loved ones. I woke up screaming once this week. My quotidian existence though is relatively mundane. Weekends are a meaningless concept. I regularly lose track of what day of the week it is as it is irrelevant. I do little laundry as most of my days are spent in my underwear or my pajamas.

I met a girl – Olga – a few weeks before the quarantine started that was here in Lima for a work project for several months. We are very different people, but when the quarantine was imposed, we found ourselves trapped in our respective apartments alone. Her work promptly laid her off and she is working to find her way back to Santiago. We began visiting one another to have company, moving between one another’s apartments by taking specific routes on which we are less likely to encounter police with our addresses memorized and grocery shopping bags in hand. We now spend several days each week together cooking, reading, watching movies, drinking wine and helping each other to navigate these strange and difficult times. We have become close friends, forced together under the circumstances to openly share our lives with on another.

I watch other countries with horror as I sit feeling relatively safe in Peru due to the stringent measures that have been imposed. Ecuador serves as a reminder of what could happen here. I find myself thinking about exit strategies for Peru, about political/economic/medical measures to strike a manageable balance between cases, medical resources, and the need for a functional economy. I wonder about what travel will look like three months from now: without a vaccine how can global travel function?

These are strange times in good ways as well. Each evening I head up to the barren concrete roof that caps my building to watch the sunset. A few nights ago, there was a rare clear sky above Lima. Olga and I finished a bottle of wine as we looked up at the stars and fantasized about what we will do and where we will travel when this is all over. We talk about how good we truly have it in this very moment, that it is all just a matter of perspective.